Women's Ties: Heritage, Transgression, and the Art of Tying What Doesn't Belong to You
There are some items that women have taken from men without asking permission. The tie is one of them. Not snatched in a rush, but adopted methodically, intentionally—with that distinctive smile of women who know exactly what they’re doing.
Today, the women’s tie is an essential accessory in any woman’s wardrobe: it plays on the contrasts between masculine and feminine, between discipline and freedom, between tradition and reinterpretation. More than just a fashion detail, it helps define a silhouette, highlight a personality, and, often, assert a sense of authority.
For women who want to adopt it as a symbol of style, confidence, and self-expression, it is by no means a passing trend. Wearing a tie has never been a trivial act: it means embracing a code in order to transform it, conquering a realm of fashion long dominated by men, and turning it into a language of power, creativity, and identity.
From its history to its emergence in women’s fashion, from its symbolic significance to the various ways to wear it, right through to the main types of knots—everything you need to know to understand and choose a women’s tie is covered here.
From Croatia to Women's Fashion: The History of the Tie
The history of the tie began long before fashion runways and trends. Its origins date back to the 17th century, when Croatian mercenaries wore a knotted scarf around their necks to indicate their affiliation. This fashion detail quickly caught the attention of the French court.
Under Louis XIV, the cravat became a symbol of social distinction. Reserved for wealthy men, it came to embody elegance, status, and a certain idea of masculinity. For several centuries, it remained an almost exclusively masculine accessory.
Then the boundaries begin to blur.
In the 1930s, women such as Marlene Dietrich and Katharine Hepburn embraced the style of men’s suits. They wore pants, jackets, and sometimes ties with a confidence that left a lasting mark on the history of fashion.
Later, in the 1960s and 1970s, women’s liberation profoundly transformed fashion trends. Yves Saint Laurent played a major role in this evolution with his famous women’s tuxedo, paving the way for a new take on men’s tailoring and accessories.
The tie then ceases to be a mere borrowing. It becomes a language.
When the Tie Becomes a Symbol of Self-Assertion
In the 1980s, women’s neckties underwent a major transformation. The professional world was changing, and women were entering fields that had previously been predominantly male.
The tie thus became a symbol of power, authority, and confidence. Paired with the structured suits and broad shoulders of the era, it accompanied a generation of businesswomen who were asserting their place in the corporate world.
Even today, wearing a tie can reinforce the impression of confidence and competence, particularly in professional settings where dress codes remain important.
But its meaning has changed.
It is no longer just a symbol of authority. It has become a fashion accessory capable of expressing both strength and sensitivity, as well as discipline and creativity.
“Fashion isn’t about clothes. It’s about territory. And women have never stopped conquering it.”
"Annie Hall," Hepburn, and the Women Who Changed the Rules
Katharine Hepburn wore it with loose-fitting pants and a natural elegance that seemed to defy convention without even trying to provoke it.
Then came *Annie Hall*.
In the 1977 film of the same name, Diane Keaton turns the slightly loosened tie into a fashion statement. The look becomes iconic: a men’s shirt, a vest, loose-fitting pants, and a tie worn with calculated nonchalance.
From those iconic figures to the present day, the women’s tie has never really gone away.
It has stood the test of time, returned to the runways, inspired designers, and continues to captivate a new generation of women seeking a bold style.
The rise of unisex fashion has played a major role in this democratization. Today, the lines between men’s and women’s wardrobes are more blurred than ever.
Women's Ties in Contemporary Fashion
Today, designers are constantly reinventing this accessory, a trend that’s evident both on the runway and on the red carpet.
Luxury brands such as Hermès and Gucci regularly offer unisex styles featuring bold patterns, vibrant colors, or playful prints. We’ve also seen the women’s suit and tie make a striking entrance into the fashion scene, worn by it girls like Bella Hadid, as seen at Saint Laurent.
Women's ties are often slightly narrower than men's. This more delicate proportion naturally complements the female figure while retaining the elegance of the original accessory.
Fabric also plays a key role:
Silk, for its luster and drape.
Cotton, for its casual look.
Linen, for its summery lightness.
Wool, for its winter elegance and structure.
When it comes to patterns, the possibilities are endless:
Stripes inspired by British tailoring.
Timeless polka dots.
Floral patterns.
Geometric prints.
Contemporary graphic art.
Every detail helps express a different personality, and the variety of materials and patterns becomes a key element of style. Pinterest can also offer inspiration for putting together a wardrobe centered around the tie.
The Diega Gesture: Tying as a Foundational Act
In Diega's wardrobe, there is a subtle fascination with the art of tying a knot.
A knot tied at the waist, a belt that defines the silhouette, a scarf worn loosely around the neck. These details always tell the same story: that of a garment that adapts to the woman wearing it.
Cravatio is a natural fit for this approach.
Available each season in new fabrics, it complements a variety of style interpretations. When more fluid, it easily transforms into a lavallière. When more structured, it better accentuates the silhouette of a suit or women’s shirt.
Its sophistication lies precisely in that freedom.
She doesn't dictate anything.
She suggests.
The Legacy of Tailoring According to Diega
For Carole Petit, founder of Diega, men’s fashion is not an external reference. It is an intimate memory.
The daughter of a tailor, she grew up surrounded by patterns, fabrics, and the traditional craftsmanship of suit-making. This culture of tailoring naturally permeates the brand’s collections.
The tie is part of this history.
It retains its original shape but takes on a different meaning when worn by a woman.
That’s the whole paradox of the Diega collection: borrowing from men’s fashion to better transform it.
The brand's manifesto evokes this "tender clash of an elegant, androgynous wardrobe, reimagined through the freedom and grace of femininity."
The tie is probably the most obvious example of this. In fact, there are no strict rules for wearing a women's tie.
How to Wear a Women's Tie?
Today, the tie has become a key piece in a woman’s wardrobe and offers a wide range of possibilities.
Depending on the occasion, it can also be a stylish way to break with convention.
The Classic Tailored Look
Worn over a button-up shirt fastened all the way to the top with a centered bow, it creates a silhouette inspired by traditional men’s suits, offering a true opportunity for a bold fashion statement, and works particularly well for work or a professional meeting, while the centered bow and straight drape reinforce the structured look.
The Casual Version
Tied more loosely over a tank top, worn under an open jacket, or paired with jeans, it strikes a subtle balance between elegance and casualness, and can also be worn for a more laid-back evening, with one end slightly loosened to break with convention.
A Modern Take on the Lavallière
Draped around the neck with a soft drape, it becomes almost like a piece of textile jewelry, capable of even replacing traditional jewelry as a visual accent, revealing a more feminine side and also complementing a flowing dress for a more striking contrast.
A Distinctive Fashion Style
Paired with an oversized shirt, loose-fitting pants, or a structured jacket, it becomes the standout piece in your wardrobe.
The Main Tie Knots
The choice of knot has a significant impact on the final look.
The Four-in-Hand Knot
Also known as the simple knot, it is the basic knot for beginners and the most common one. Easy to tie and slightly asymmetrical, it is perfect for those new to tying a tie, and women who are just learning to tie one will find it easy to master.
The Half-Windsor Knot
Striking the perfect balance between simplicity and sophistication, it features greater symmetry while remaining easy to tie.
The Windsor or Double Windsor
Larger and perfectly symmetrical, it pairs particularly well with wide collars and more formal outfits, with a tip that falls harmoniously once the knot is adjusted.
Creative Knots
For special occasions, variations such as the Eldredge knot or the Trinity knot create intricate, braided patterns that transform the tie into a true fashion statement; they require greater technical skill and are particularly well-suited for those who want to make the tie a real eye-catcher.
A play that has stood the test of time
Each season brings new interpretations, new fabrics, and new colors, in keeping with the tradition of the major heritage brands mentioned earlier, such as Brooks Brothers.
Yet the tie still holds the same symbolic power.
It tells the story of an accessory that originated in men’s wardrobes and, over time, became an essential element of women’s fashion. It now has a rightful place in the contemporary wardrobe, with no fixed style rules. It evokes the runways, designers, style icons, businesswomen, artists, and all those who choose each morning to reclaim a style code and make it their own—an accessory that continues to gain symbolic meaning with each passing season.
Because, deep down, a tie isn't just an accessory.
It's a way of taking on a legacy, shaping it in your own way, and writing your own story.
— Diega Paris